Chilton's Antiques



What is Antique?

	The word antique is derived from the Latin word Antiquus meaning old. The true definition of the term antique in Australia is an object that is over 100 years of age. So by the most widely used definition and at the time of writing this then any item prior to 1908 is now antique. The word antique can be used to describe any object whether it be, furniture, a decorative item or jewellery from a former period of time which is valued because of its beauty, rarity, condition and age. Antiques usually have special values associated with them because of their age and their rarity- the fact not many of them would have survived the test of time.

Antiques are usually artefacts left over from bygone eras or ancient times. They are an insight into the past, a way to look at society’s ever changing styles and technologies. Antiques usually have higher financial values associated with them. Their values are based on what someone is prepared to pay for them and how collectable they are. What deems something to be collectable and therefore worth money is the number of people who collect that item, how it was made, the material it was made with, its date, the condition and how scarce it is. Different markets around the world will have different prices associated with certain goods. The antique market in Australia is different to other markets such as the American and English market. The market is what sets the true value for something. Antiques like anything usually have different degrees of craftsmanship and quality connected with them. However unlike today’s pieces, antiques were usually made to last a person’s lifetime and be passed on to future generations.

	In today’s society there are different levels of quality within jewellery. A majority of chain stores sell for the now not for the future. Meaning the item you purchase may only last for a few years with solid wear, where prior to 1970 pieces were made not only to last your lifetime but they were intended to become heirloom pieces; pieces that were able to be passed down through many generations. This however isn’t always the case but you do get what you pay for in terms of quality. With the advent of technology, machines have been produced to cast and mass produce jewellery. Certain mass production techniques have been around for 100 years but in those times society was different, people prided themselves on workmanship and longevity.

While still being produced for a mass market, the items were made stronger and more durable. The ever driving force of big companies’ profit margins has lead to the cheap casting procedures that we now see today. Much jewellery is made for show not for durability. The manufacturers play on the fact that people seem to want a big show for little money, “if the price seems right or even cheap people will be drawn into buying it”. This can be particularly illustrated in the case of rings: the metal is very thin, the interior band of such rings has been hollowed out and there are only small amounts of metal securing precious gems. With the casting process the mould made to produce the piece is then used to make 100’s of pieces and as the pieces multiply the quality of each batch deteriorates. Often pieces that have been cast are unable to be repaired by the jeweller as there is not enough gold for the jeweller to work with and the pieces become brittle. Casting is a cheap way for jewellery shops to reproduce rings and have a quick turn around for a low cost. It is economy of scale jewellery. A majority of cast jewellery is now made overseas especially Asia.

With modern pieces, manufacturers can mass produce hundreds and even thousands of the same design from the one mould. It important to realise that the more the cast or mould is used the thinner the mould becomes. Who wants what everyone else has, they should want what you have.

Types of Markets

	The marketplace dictates the value of the item. Many people don’t realise that there are many different types of valuation figures that can be put upon an item. The value of an item can depend on the marketplace you are dealing in. The upmarket city, high profile retailers vary from small suburban outlets in value placed on goods.

The upmarket retailers always have higher profit margins to cover, with overheads such as prime location and advertising. As well, you pay for a name! Big brand names have always carried highly inflated prices that are well above normal suburban retailers’ markets. When seeking a replacement valuation this factor has to be taken into account.

Value is all relative; it depends upon what marketplace you are talking about to what a piece is worth. For example when it comes to the re-sale market there is the internet market, auction market, second hand dealer market and antique dealer market. The value of the item depends on what market you are entering

There are many different types of valuation certificates. There are valuations for probate, divorce proceedings, insurance and valuations for selling. These have been put into three basic categories that try to make it simple to comprehend. There are different types of valuations that can be given to you depending on your requirements. Also, each jewellery shop will value jewellery differently. The reason for this is that they base their figures upon their own markets and what they perceive the item to be worth. This could vary from the top end market stores to small suburban stores. Other factors that influence a valuation is the cost of materials such as gold, silver, labour costs and gemstone prices. If a valuation is given in times when these materials have peaked in price the valuation will be much higher than if it is done when these variables are at a low.

Types of Valuations



1. Probate(Estate division)

2. Insurance (Replacement value)

3. Re-Sale (Approximate price goods will fetch if put up for sale on the current market also allowing for the type of market whether it be auction house, retail outlet or via the internet) I’m often asked, “How do I know if an item should be valued for insurance?” I advise people if items have been purchased under $800, they do not generally require an official valuation certificate. Receipts are usually deemed adequate by insurance companies. Any item over that value should be valued not only for insurance purposes but to show proof of ownership and for accurate descriptions such as gram weight etc. This can come in handy if your ownership of the goods is ever questioned in case of theft. I also suggest that you photograph your jewellery; this is also a great idea if it is ever stolen so the police will have adequate photos of the items that were taken. This may aid them in the investigation and eventually see the items returned to you.

Dating jewellery

	The main periods of time that you will come across with antique jewellery are Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian. Each period of antique jewellery will have its own unique definite style from Art Deco, Retro, and Art Nouveau through to Modern. One of the great advantages of antique jewellery is that it generally appreciates in value and most pieces have an interesting history behind them.

People often ask, “How I can date a piece when it isn’t hallmarked or stamped with a year of manufacture?” This is done through an educated guess. Being an antique dealer means having a very strong knowledge of the history of certain items over the last few hundred years. With certain periods of time, come styles and designs and by looking at these designs an item’s age can be ascertained. Each era and period had a very structured design, for example you would never get Victorian jewellery confused with Retro jewellery as their designs and structures are completely different. We can also look at the types of stones used in the jewellery piece and the way they have been cut. A great example of this is: old mine cut and semi old mine cut diamonds were used in jewellery up to 1920’s. Each era also brings an insight into what major events occurred within that time. These influences impacted on the fashion of that period. In the future, I wonder how we will be seen. What will be remembered? We will be known as the era of cast, mass produced Asian pave settings full of TTLB (Top Top Light Brown Diamonds) or laser drilled diamonds, fracture filled, cubic zirconia jewellery and numerous cheap “knock off’s.” Are we a generation in which the majority of the public look at price not quality and who tend to buy inferior substandard jewellery as it is inexpensive? Of course there are still top craftsman in the jewellery industry but their numbers are few.

Antiques and the dawn of new technologies

With the dawn of the new tech age of the computer and the internet came EBay.

EBay has impacted hugely on the antique industry. Antique dealers are almost becoming as rare as the goods they are selling.

	In my area alone over the past five years six antique dealers have closed down. Some retired; some could not afford to keep operating. In that time there has been no new influx of people coming into the industry, antique dealers are a dying breed. EBay is one of these causes. So think twice before buying from a home operator who has little overheads and limited costs, because once antique dealers cease to exist there will be no shops left. No one to seek advice from! No one to question! No one to speak to in person! No one to correctly value goods! That’s an invaluable service. Competitive markets have a role to play, but only on a fair basis. Shops are expensive to run. Conserve and preserve the local antique shop by supporting it with your trade. It is still a wonderful experience to enter an antique shop and to see or feel an item that has existed in another period of time. Browsing in person has so many benefits! The tactile experience cannot be replaced with a computer screen.

Terms Associated With Antiques

ENGLISH PERIODS OF MONARCHY- FROM 1714-1910.

Georgian 1714-1830’s

	The Georgian period saw the reign of the four Kings of England who were named George. In this time pinchbeck became popular. It was a gold substitute invented as a cheaper hardier gold alternative. The fashion of the Georgian era was mainly diamond set jewellery. Diamond rings were set in settings that had gold bands and silver tops. If diamonds were too costly a diamond alternative had to be found so, paste (glass) jewellery was used. This proved to be immensely popular with middle to lower classes as it was inexpensive and looked very enticing.

Eye jewellery was also very fashionable, as well as portrait miniatures and hair jewellery. In Georgian times the jewellery was more subtle and stylised in design. Settings were less ornate and enamel was often used to highlight gems. Diamonds also tended to be rose cut, European cut and later old mine cut. Diamonds and paste stones alike were foiled from behind to enhance their brilliance. The styles in this era were the Rococo style- a filigree wire worked design that was highly elaborate, also the neoclassical style and the gothic revival.

Victorian 1837-1901

	The reigning monarch of the day was the very young Queen Victoria who at the tender age of 18 became Queen. Victoria became the longest serving monarch ruling for 63 years. She also saw England through many periods of change. This was an age of elaborate and ornate unrestrained design. In this period large drop earrings were fashionable along with seed pearls and multi tiered necklaces. Highly ornate jewellery was the fashion of the day.

In this era the revival period of Etruscan style was seen. This was inspired by ancient Roman archaeological digs. The Victorian era is often divided into three periods: The Romantic Period 1837-1860, The Grand Period 1860-1888 and The End of An Era 1888-1901.

During the Victorian time the second revival of mourning jewellery took place. This lasted from 1870-1890’s. Then finally towards the end of the Victorian era we saw the popularity of the Art Nouveau style. This style became fashionable between1890-1910.

It was a very organic artistic style with a natural feel.

Late Victorian jewellery felt the impact of the industrial revolution that made jewellery more affordable to the masses. This period witnessed many changes, from the epic romance of Victoria and Albert to great tragedies and the unprecedented prosperity.

Edwardian 1901-1910

	The turn of the century witnessed King Edward VII take control of England’s reins after Queen Victoria’s death. In the Edwardian period jewellery went through a period of reform. Styles tended to be simpler and less ornate compared to Victorian times. We see far more classical lines and simple designs. This era was very modern in its simplicity but the designs always had an air of lightness and delicacy to them.

Rings were immensely popular and women wore several on each hand. These rings were very fragile and light and were not intended for hard working women but for the leisured classes.

A great number of floral designs are seen in this period, as well as birds, flower baskets, hearts, bows & ribbons.

Platinum was the metal of choice and it was fashioned into very delicate lace like creations that were set with a dazzling array of sparkling diamonds. Often also favoured in this period were Australian black opals.